Scotland is mentioned almost daily in my world. And if it isn’t spoken aloud, it’s a consistent thought that pops into my head: when can I visit again? Where should I go next? Should I move there?

Since the publishing of Outlander by Diana Gabaldon, Scotland has arguably been at the forefront of many travel plans. But, Scotland goes a bit further back for me. Hanging on a wall in my grandparents condo was the bright tartan of the Buchanan Clan – the clan of my paternal grandmother’s ancestors. Curiosity and love for Scotland grew as I got older, until the day I was finally able to visit for the first time.

My friends A & T were planning a few days in Edinburgh and asked if I wanted to meet them there. I didn’t even have to think about it: I scheduled the days off at work and booked my tickets.

I spent a day or so on my own before my friends arrived. I meandered up and down the Mile, ducking into the plethora of free museums, cafe’s, souvenir shops, and bumbling around taking photos. I attempted a hike to Arthur’s Seat – making it halfway up before I decided to avoid the crowd at the top. The views from my position were good enough – the view was exhilarating.

Edinburgh is a unique, fantastical, magical place out of time. The Old Town is so well preserved by the nature of it’s history. It’s layer upon layer of generations that can be explored with tours like The Real Mary’s Close, and any number of ghost/history tours. We took advantage of both, exploring the underground vaults where people lived after a new layer was built atop the reeking old layer of filth and poverty.

At one time Edinburgh was a walled in city. One had to pay to enter, and pay to leave. Many would come into the city seeking work and better fortunes, but were then unable to leave when those fortunes weren’t found. They couldn’t pay the fine to leave, couldn’t find work, and couldn’t pay rent, so they sheltered beneath the city in spaces overcrowded with people and animals. Diseases ran rampant through the tunnels; the filth from the streets oozing into open crevices as chamber pots were thrown from the windows with a quick “gardy loo!”

The buildings above were little better as they could reach 14 stories, crammed with people. One such tenement can be seen in the well preserved Real Mary’s Close located beneath a government building on the Royal Mile. One can walk down the narrow street that had at one time been open to the sky, but just as dark as the buildings around it blocked out the sun. Eventually, those of the wealthier class grew tired of the filth and moved out of the city when the New Town was built.

The Royal Mile is bookended by Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace. Edinburgh Castle sits atop a hill of old volcanic rock, dutifully guarding the city below it; Holyrood Palace holding court on the other end. I happily walked through rooms once held by Mary Queen of Scots, and the Bonnie Prince Charlie.

One also cannot visit Edinburgh without taking a Harry Potter tour, especially a fan such as I. This tour was exceptionally enjoyable as it was a mixture of both Harry Potter lore and simple Edinburgh history. Our guide took us through Greyfriars, the kirkyard that gave name to many of the characters including Professor McGonagall and Lord Voldemort. We toured Victoria Street, the inspiration for Diagon Alley, and learned about the public executions held in the Grassmarket.

I tried haggis for the first time (it’s surprisingly good), took a taxi outside of the city at the recommendation of our Harry Potter tour guide where I visited Craigmillar Castle, then walked back to my hotel. On the way back, I stopped at one of the oldest pubs in Edinburgh, enjoying a gin and tonic and salad. The walk back was absolutely beautiful, mixing between city and nature all the way.

Edinburgh is such a beautiful place. The people are kind, the history rich. But I have only brushed the surface of Scotland: Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Stirling are just a few of the many – and I’m far from done exploring this magical land.