the merchant city

I’ve been to Bonnie Alba twice now, each time falling more in love with the magic of the country. And while Glasgow was not the first time I visited, this trip was rather meaningful.

I’ve dreamed of Scotland since I was a kid. I always wondered about the piece of Buchanan Tartan hanging at my grandparents condo. I remember always thinking what a contrast it seemed against both my German-Austrian-Hungarian and American Indian roots that seemed much more prominent in my appearance and personality.

At some point in my life I heard the Scottish burr. I should probably remember this clearly, but I don’t. It likely involved the historically inaccurate Braveheart… but what I’m getting at is: I was obsessed. Scotland quickly rose to the top of my travel bucket list and remained there until I finally visited Edinburgh in June of 2022.

While I will later write about the magic and wonder of Edinburgh, I really wanted to reminisce about our time in Glasgow. To be quite honest, it’s a place I’d not thought much about visiting. When one thinks of Scotland, usually places like the Highlands and Edinburgh come to mind. But one of my favorite tattoo artists is based in Glasgow – and so an entire visit was planned around an appointment I’d scored with her.

Our trip was in November; the weather chilly and rainy… but I now highly recommend visiting during this season as it adds to the ambiance of Scotland.

Both Glasgow and Edinburgh airports are small and easy to navigate, and both are relatively easy to get transportation into the city center. In Glasgow, that’s by taxi or bus. Tristan and I usually lean towards “private” transportation after flying. While this tends to be the pricier of options, it’s an expense we budget for because we tend to need a quieter, people-free ride after being packed in on an airplane.

Our hotel was the fantastic Native Glasgow between Georges Square and Buchanan Street – a decently central location to much of the sightseeing. Restaurants, shops, and the Glasgow Queen Street Station were all in easy walking distance.

Our first day we spent much of the time meandering around close by the hotel. Tristan tends to be tired after traveling, while I tend to need to move – so we compromise by buying most of our gifts to send home that day, finding a good spot to nosh, and seeing sites nearby that won’t take a lot of time.

Tristan devoured his first haggis (ordering anything haggis related at every restaurant we visited thereafter); we trotted through yet another eerie graveyard; spent a day on an amazingly beautiful (and hysterical) bus tour with a fantastically Scottish tour guide; took a 45 minute train ride to Edinburgh for a day; and left Scotland feeling exhausted, liberated, and wanting to go back for more. On our drive home from the Frankfurt airport, my usually stoic, non-complimentary kid said, “that was a good trip.”

the drowning girl club

I have this horrible habit of “doom scrolling” Instagram before I fall asleep, and somewhere in that time the Glasgow-based tattoo artist fidjit popped up – it was one of her original Drowners, fresh, bold, and speaking to me. Her head peaking above the waves, just so. She holds her trauma, the weight of the rocks heavy in her pockets, just below the water – just underneath the thin membrane of darkness where none can see. And yet she stays afloat – surviving, if only just barely.

The Drowner is me. She is you. She is all of us as we pull ourselves above that suffocating darkness. We survive.

My Drowning girl is simple. She has waves for curls. She’s in the crook of my arm so I can see Her. She means so much to me – I’m in tears reminiscing and writing this.

And my experience with fidjit herself had to be one of the most positive tattoo experiences I’ve ever had. For me, tattoos are cathartic. It’s a rare time that I am able to calm my mind, control my breathing, settle my anxiety. It may be my idealized memory of the experience, but I think she knew. She chatted gently with me – we talked about where we were from; how my curls were also part of my identity and she spoke of her mother’s curly hair. I could tell that she was thankful to have given me this… representation of what is also a huge part of my identity – what makes me the person I am today. I see it with every Drowner she posts on her Instagram.

I left feeling as if I’d just left the therapist. I felt relief.

Please take a moment and read about fidjit here and the Drowning Girl here.

glasgow recommendations

Don’t leave Glasgow without paying a visit to the Duke of Wellington. He’s located in front of the Gallery of Modern Art in Royal Exchange Square – a traffic cone often perched upon his head.

There’s a ton of shopping and eats down Buchanan Street.

And you know I love a good graveyard! The Glasgow Necropolis behind the Cathedral gives the best spooky vibes on a cloudy fall day. There are some fantastic views from the top as well.

Ashton Ln is a cute little nook that is busy with nightlife and ambiance!

Take advantage of the extensive train system and take a day trip to Edinburgh or find yourself a bus tour for a day trip to Loch Lomond and Stirling Castle. You might meet some new furry friends. The photo’s of the view from Stirling Castle do not do the real this justice! Scotland is what I imagine Heaven looks like.